• on becoming a grandmother

    It’s a strange thing, becoming a grandmother. Unlike becoming a parent, it’s not something I choose — it happens to me.

    Up until now, the show has been mine. I have been the one raising children, making decisions and life changes and a home. I rule. But with this new baby, I will no longer be centerstage. Soon, the moon and stars will revolve around the grandbaby’s family, and I will be bumped to an outer orbit — revolving, watching, illuminating. 

    It is confusing. I want this new baby more than anything, and I am sad.

    Also, I am incredulous. How can I be this old?

    ***

    For weeks leading up to the birth, I dream about babies. About a two-year-old little girl with a mop of thick, curly hair. About a long skinny boy named Jebriel who weighs 20 pounds. About being pregnant, nursing, and giving birth. The dreams are intense, frequent, and disorienting.

    As the end of the pregnancy closes in, I get twitchy. I think about my daughter-in-law constantly. Where is she? How is she feeling? Is everything okay? As long as I’m with her (which isn’t often), I feel calm, but only an hour or two after, and I’m tense again.

    My sleep becomes fragmented.

    ***

    The night before the baby comes, my son calls to tell us that labor has started and is going well. They just want us to know in case they need help in a few hours. Make sure your phone is on, he says.

    I sleep fitfully, checking my phone every hour. There are no messages.

    In the morning, my son calls. All night, labor has been intense, and due to a midwife shortage at their practice, they’re going to need to transfer to the birthing center to get care. While they are away, would we mind running over and cleaning up the house?

    Of course, I say. Right before lunch, my husband and I head over to their place. I strip the sheets and plastic from the bed, straighten the living area, and then — another phone call. 

    My son says he has a migraine and is fighting nausea. He needs backup.

    ***

    At the birthing center, my son’s eyes are red-rimmed from exhaustion. He looks half out of his mind. Over the dull roar of the white noise machine in the hallway, I hear a low-register wailing, like whale sounds crossed with a tiger’s growl. It goes on and on and on, and then stops. And then starts back up again.

    “That’s her,” my son says tiredly. “She’s been doing that since the beginning.”

    I surprise myself by feeling so distressed at the sounds. How can he be so calm? How is he not beside himself? She sounds so . . . alone. I have an overwhelming urge to run back there and koala myself to her.

    I say none of this, though, and I hope my face reveals nothing.

    My son starts mumbling about oxygen levels, then — something about breathing too deeply and needing carbon dioxide — so he sticks his head in my bag and zippers it shut. “You can take a photo,” he says through the leather.

    The bag treatment works, and soon he disappears back down the hall.

    Between contractions, I send chirpy texts to my girlfriend, and to my daughter-in-law’s mother. During contractions, I pace, hurling whisper-shout commands at the wall like a drunk football fan in front of the TV. 

    My husband rubs my back. “It’s like you’re in labor.” He laughs when he says it, but he’s tense, too.

    The keening intensifies — I feel like I’m going to explode out of my skin — and then, suddenly, my son’s voice breaks through, “You did it!”

    My husband and I high-five and cry and hug, and then I immediately resume my post, this time listening for newborn sounds.

    After a bit, one of the midwives comes out to report it’s a boy, and I’m surprised, even though I’d spent the first half of the pregnancy sure it was a boy. A little bit later, there’s our son, glowing, grinning, jubilant.

    When we are finally invited back into the inner sanctum, I steel myself. Surely my daughter-in-law will have a bruised face, bloodshot eyes, and no voice. 

    When I see her sitting up in bed nursing the baby, and smiling, I’m so relieved she’s in one piece that I awkwardly pat her all over her head and face before pulling myself together. 

    ***

    I thought that when I’d first hold my grandbaby, my heart would explode, but I don’t feel anything, really. He’s naked, and so, so tiny, and he wiggles a lot. I hold him clumsily, like I have never held a baby before. 

    He doesn’t look like either of his parents, which confuses me. He’s more blond than I expected — practically a redhead. 

    He sticks his tongue out a lot.

    ***

    My husband and I sit in chairs at the far end of the room and watch the goings-on.

    Never before have I seen two people in worse shape make such a complete turn-around. The air is so thick with good endorphins that I can practically see them.

    My son bounces about, giving the baby his vitamin K shot, eating a burger, picking out a onesie, packing up their things, and talking, talking, talking.

    My daughter-in-law is an entire ocean of serenity, so glowy and happy-soft, she’s practically melty

    We hang out together, visiting about this and that, and placing bets on the baby’s weight. (My daughter-in-law nails it: 7 pounds 6 ounces.)

    But mostly we don’t say much of anything. There’s no need for words, really. There’s no space for them.

    ***

    During the post-delivery clean up, my husband and I return to the waiting room, but then my son shows up, baby in arms. Can I hold him for a bit?

    For the better part of an hour, I bask in the sweetness. I can almost feel the love tendrils creeping out of my chest and wrapping themselves around his warm little body.

    ***

    The next day when I swing by to collect their dirty laundry (really, I just want to see the baby), the weirdest thing happens. 

    As I sit there, the new little person in my arms, doing nothing but holding him, it dawns on me: I am content. 

    I am rarely content, and holding my own babies, I was always hankering to do something else. Maybe my contentment is a fluke, a one-time occurance? 

    But later that week when I pop in to help out (er, get some cuddles), I snuggle him for nearly two hours, staring at his face, snuffling his head, singing to him — and he isn’t even awake. 

    It’s bizarre.

    ***

    Everyone keeps asking me how it feels to be a grandparent. 

    This is the first grandbaby on both sides of the family, and on my side it’s the first great grandbaby, and the first great great grandbaby. But aside from the collective creaking that is the sound of our entire extended family aging upwards, there’s not much to say. This becoming just is

    But I do feel things. 

    Gratitude —  for the myriad of ways the new parents have needed and included us. 

    Wonderment — at the indescribable beauty of watching my son and daughter-in-law fall head over heels in love with their child.

    Startlement — for my dizzying biological pull to care for and protect this child. 

    Exhilaration — for the intoxicating discovery that I have the capacity to love in a new way, a way I’ve never loved before. 

    So that’s my answer, I guess. Becoming a grandparent feels unexpected and thrilling, raw and disorienting, draining and joyful. 

    Most of all, it feels right

    P.S. I still haven’t picked a name for myself yet, but at this point I’m too busy soaking up the cuddles to even care. 

    This same time, years previous: pickled jalapeños, crunch week, chicken birthday cake, colby cheese, cherry bounce, roasted sweet potato salad, for science, another adventure!, kitchen concert, homemade pepperoni, opening, what will I wish I had done differently?, adventuring, oatcakes.

  • island time

    For the first time since having kids, my husband and I went on a vacation, alone. (This isn’t so much a hardship as it is a fascinating bit of trivia. We just aren’t the vacationing sort.)

    So where’d we go? Puerto Rico, of course!

    It’s been nearly eight years since we spent four months volunteering in Puerto Rico after Hurricane Maria, so we were long overdue a trip back to visit friends and do all the touristy stuff we didn’t do when we were there working. So when the stars aligned (ie, the cows were simultaneously dry, it was “wintertime” on the island, and we were still, but just barely, pre-grandbaby), we sprung for it. 

    Now before you go any further, heads-up: this post is packed. My memory is crap, so I’m noting details (and attaching links) for next time — and for those of you who might be making a similar trek and want all the deets. Buckle up!

    Here’s how we divided our eight nights on the island:

    • 2 nights at an Airbnb in Ponce (Chiro and Lery’s house!)
    • 2 nights at an Airbnb in Combate (an apartment)
    • 2 nights at an Airbnb in Isabela (a tiny room)
    • 2 nights at an Airbnb in Manatí (an enormous house)

    PONCE 
    Days 1-3

    At La Guancha, with a captured Russian ship on the horizon.

    The whole time we were in Ponce, I was a bubbling mashup of exhilaration, melancholy, nostalgia, delight, and sadness. Our time there with all four kids was an intoxicating experience — challenging, intense, and profoundly rewarding — and it will never again to be replicated. That gap between What Was Then and What Is Now underscores the way time marches ever forward, and felt equal parts like a gut punch and forehead kiss. 

    The island was so different! When we’d been there after Maria, the island was still shattered, soggy in the summer heat and reeling from the destruction.

    This time around, there were no blue FEMA tarps, flowers grew rampant, and we saw actual fields of banana plants. It was deliciously warm (sometimes almost cool!), and the roads were easy-breezy nice and lined with actual street signs and street lights (as opposed to being in crumbled piles in the median). There were still lots of empty houses, of course, but their abandonment felt worn over and not as cuttingly fresh. 

    Chiro and his son Demeric met us in San Juan, took us to lunch, and then handed us the keys to the jeep (which they let us use for the duration!!!).

    The first 48 hours of island driving, I was edgy, clutching the door handle and yipping at the sharp turns and crazy steep inclines. But by the end of the trip, I didn’t even flinch when oncoming traffic swerved out of our lane last minute — and that, my friends, is proof of the powerful effects of a long vacation.

    The two windows belong to the Airbnb and were the former entrance to the marquesina (garage).

    In Ponce, we stayed in our friends’ new Airbnb, which was fabulous: washer and dryer, coffee maker, drinks in the fridge, comfy, HUGE bed, spacious, well-air conditioned, quiet, nice lamp lighting, easy access, and on and on. Highly recommend!

    While in Ponce, we indulged in our favorites, like going out with friends for ice cream, stopping by the Dompline food truck for breakfast, popping by bakeries, swinging by La Guancha, and going for a run-slash-bike ride down to the water. 

    Domplines!

    You would not believe the intense debate required to order a ham sandwich.

    Catch of the day: pan de agua.

    We had lunch with Nilda and Norleen, the owners of the house we built. The house is still standing strong, even with the earthquake they had soon after completion. Way to go, volunteers!

    We also got to do the touristy things we never did when we were there, like touring the Castle (home of the owner of Don Q rum), riding to the top of La Cruceta (the lookout over Ponce), and meandering through the Japanese gardens.

    The ride up in the glass elevator was a bit much for him.

    COMBATE 
    For our first vacation spot, we’d wanted to stay in Parguera. However, we didn’t realize it was a long holiday weekend with both Valentine’s and President’s Day and by the time we tried to reserve places, everything was already booked. So we ended up in Combate, a vacationing hotspot for locals with ghost town vibes. Also, it’s the one place on the island I never really liked. 

    Combate Airbnb

    We survived it just fine, though.

    ***

    For those who want to be like the cool kids…

    How To Vacation Like a Puerto Rican 

    1. Amass the required accoutrements: coolers, chairs, floaties, beer, music. 
    2. The louder the music, the better, never mind if your neighbor is blasting something entirely different just five feet away. LET IT RIP. 
    3. Stake out your spot, either in chairs on land or on floaties in the water, and then crack open a beer and kick back. 

    Combate

    ***

    Day Four
    We did a long beach hike in the morning.

    exploring the trails in the marsh reserves

    We drove up to the north of Mayagüez for a rum tour and tasting

    The coffee rum is amazing (and costs $19 in duty free).

    And then jetted back to Combate where we watched people watch the sun go down over the water. 

    Day Five
    Before heading to our next spot, we backtracked to Parguera where we’d reserved a boat.

    We spent the five hours motoring to different little clumps of mangroves and walking around in the thigh-high warm waters.

    the only beach (that I found) in the entire keys

    Once we figured out how not to run aground, we became adept at finding nice sandy spots, and then I’d throw the anchor overboard and we’d sit there, bobbing on the water, quietly watching…

    • hundreds of people on jetskis zipping back and forth
    • boat police going after people (we never did figure out the rules)
    • the huge variety of water crafts, including a gazebo boat serving drinks, double deckers, and boats made to look like cars. 
    • people walking about holding drinks aloft, and people using their jetskis as makeshift countertops on which to make mixed drinks.

    zoom in to see the crowds

    It was like being in an enormous water-filled playground. If you have kids, go.

    ISABELA
    Day Six

    Isabela Airbnb

    We headed into the Guajataca Forest. Getting there, the roads were so narrow and winding that we had to, per local instructions, roll down windows, drive 15 mph, and honk going around corners. 

    The trail was spectacular: well-maintained, lush, and a cacophony of birdsong, and we never passed another soul. 

    The 5+ mile loop included the Cueva del Viento (Cave of the Wind).

    We’d brought headlamps for exploring, but when we reached the cave (after slowly descending the side of the mountain via a series of rotting and collapsing stairs), the opening looked like the entrance to an abandoned mineshaft. The “stairs” were sticks of wood going every whichaway, and they were in various stages of decomposition. 

    My husband took one look and said, “Hell, no.” I concurred. The end.

    After the hike, we headed to the Gozalandia waterfalls. The upper falls was swarming with people and had a rope swing. I was terrified to jump, but my husband made me do it.

    upper falls

    The lower falls was also swarming with people. We sat in the shallows and watched crazy people jump from the falls and mountainside into the water. 

    lower falls

    Day Seven
    We tootled around the the western corner of the island, popping in to see Las Ruinas del Faro and the various beaches.

    travel face

    My favorite, by far, was Jobos because of its small-town, playful vibe.

    Jobos

    It boasted a perfect mix: calm water for small children on one side, and approachable waves for surfing on the other. If (when) we come back, Jobos is now at the top of my list. 

    Enroute to our next Airbnb, we’d planned to visit La Vaca Negra, a raw milk cheesemaking company, but on our way there we discovered they were closed that day. My husband insisted we swing by anyway, and wouldn’t you know, someone was out in the parking lot!

    Turns out, she’s the project manager, and she cheerfully filled us in on the story behind the place, the products, and then she asked if we’d like samples. Duh, yes. We tried a bunch of yogurts (Oatmeal! Papaya! Coffee! Pina colada!) and then she pulled out boxes of cheeses.

    We sampled them, all of them, and then bought one of each, plus yogurts, and Greek yogurt, and the most spectacular butter ever

    Mar Chiquita Beach
    Days 7-9
    Independent of us, my younger brother’s family planned a February vacation in Puerto Rico (and invited along with my parents and my two girls), so when we learned that our trips overlapped, we arranged to crash at their place for a couple nights.

    Their Airbnb was incredible — I joked it was our vacation from our vacation — and it was super fun to kickback with the gang after being on the go all week. 

    Day Eight
    My husband and I took everyone on a day trip to Ponce.

    We caravaned through the center of the island, taking them up and over the mountains which was an adventure in its own right, thanks to the ridiculously curvy roads and steep drop-offs — a part of the island missed by most tourists.

    Once in Ponce, we took them out for a second breakfast of domplines, and then to a waterfalls

    I can not believe we didn’t know about this falls when we lived here! Cool, deep, refreshing water in a vibrant green forest — it’s a little peace of heaven only a few minutes from Ponce. I bet we would’ve come every week. 

    Mid-afternoon, we went to Chiro and Lery’s for a Puerto Rican feast: mofongo, tostones, pork, chicken, arroz con habichuelas, Puerto Rican gazpacho, bakery pastries. 

    We ate up on the deck that Chiro built, visiting and laughing for three full hours.

    It was wonderful, and I could’ve stayed even longer, but we wanted to head back through the mountains before dark.

    I teared up, leaving. It’s so strange how bonds are forged. Eight years ago, we didn’t know this place, or these people, and now here we are, calling them family and feeling like we’re leaving a piece of ourselves behind. 

    Day Nine
    We spent the morning lolling on the beach.

    Grandfather in the background, granddaughter in the foreground.

    Late morning, I found myself standing in the shallows, chatting with my brother and drinking a beer. 

    It took a whole week, but I finally learned to vacation like a Puerto Rican!

    And then we packed our bags and headed to San Juan. I thought I’d be itching to get home, and while I was definitely excited (a new little human will be arriving any day!), I was surprised at how sad I was to leave Puerto Rico.

    Combate sunset

    And that, I think, means we had a good trip. 

    Notes:

    • If heading to the beach, wear swimming suit with coverup, and take a cooler with drinks and snacks, floaties, lawnchairs, towels, book, cash. Be prepared to do nothing for 5-8 hours. 
    • In the wintertime, the water along the northern coastline gets pretty rough. Be on the alert for riptides and don’t be stupid.
    • In Isabela, we got a single room. Next time, we’ll spend the extra $30-40 and get the apartment with kitchen. We learned that we enjoy ourselves much more if we have sufficient space in which to relax.
    • TVs are fancy and complicated and often don’t work. 
    • Beach locations, because they’re tucked down in along the coast, are often out of cell service range. 
    • Average restaurants feel pricey ($20-30 for a single main entre). 
    • Hit bakeries for sandwiches to-go, drinks, coffee, and breakfast pastries (about $30 to feed two for a whole day). 
    • February is a fantastic time for visiting Puerto Rico! 
    • If I were to pack again, I’d bring: two pairs of flowy pants, two pairs of jean shorts, 1 pair of jeans, running shorts, assorted nice t-shirts, a tank top, swim gear. Flip flops, nice sandals, sneakers. (I took too many shorts and t-shirts, and most places have access to washing machines.)
    • Take water shoes.
    • A rental (or borrowed!) car is a must if you want to explore. We loved having the freedom to move about.
    • Next time: more hikes. They’re so fun!
    • I’m not a beer person, but I really liked Medalla. Also, parcha (passion fruit) frappes are wicked sour and soooo good.
    • Pan de agua is good for making sandwiches. Pan sobao, which I prefer, is a little more sweet and dense.
    • Airport security doesn’t check the ziplock bags of creams and liquids like they say they do. Carrying vacuum-packed cheese is allowed, but will get you searched.
    • On your way out, get Pitorro rum (coffee and coconut are my favorite) in duty-free. $19/jar. You won’t regret it.  
    • Total cost of our trip: approx $2700. This includes 4 nights of housing, plane tickets, eating out, activity fees (boating, tours, etc), gas, and sundry purchases. For the most part, we behaved moderately, but we did not pinch pennies. Things we did not pay for included a car rental, 4 nights of housing, and a bunch of food (which probably equaled close to a savings of 2K, thank you, friends and family!). 

    If you’ve been to Puerto Rico, what are your favorite places, activities, tips, etc? I’m taking recs — you know, for next time…

    This same time, years previous: fridge guts, 100% hydration bread, noticing, baked pasta with harissa bolognese, the quotidian (2.24.20), collard greens, homemade pasta, steer sitting, doppelganger, I guess this means we’re unschooling, the quotidian (2.24.14), birds and bugs, bandwagons, the rustic side.

  • endorphins, seriously

    This year, once again, we’ve had several weeks of artic weather, and y’all know what that means, right? 

    This past weekend, according to the forecast, would be the last deep cold of the season. Saturday was brutal with high winds, but the next day was supposed to be calm. It’d be perfect, I decided. 

    Even though I plunged twice last year (first, second), I was still nervous. The night before, I dreamed I was an Olympic swimmer who didn’t know how to turn and push off the wall.

    I tried to rally the troops (friends, children, spouse), but everyone demured. Except my older daughter — and Eucefe!

    At the start of winter, I’d showed Eucefe pictures of last year’s plunge. When I asked if he’d want to do it with us, he was like, You bet, and I’m gonna stay in for 5 minutes, too!\ Considering he hates cold weather and had never even been on a frozen pond, I figured he was bluffing.

    But then Sunday morning, the day of, I checked in with Eucefe to see if he was plunging.

    Yeah, he said.

    I thought perhaps he wasn’t understanding my English, but he assured me he was gonna do it. Even then, I still wasn’t sure he fully understand what was gonna go down, but hey, if a guy from Mozambique could get in an ice-covered pond, than I could, too! 

    One of our friends had marked our plunge spot before we arrived (he and a bunch of friends would be playing on the ice later and wanted to make sure we didn’t mess up their ice), and my husband did the chainsaw honors.

    It was a good 10-inches thick! 

    My daughter was first.

    She warmed herself up with pushups, and then slipped in.

    Last year she stayed in for a minute.

    This year, a minute thirty. 

    Then it was Eucefe’s turn.

    In the car, we’d explained the gasp reflex and how it’s important to enter slowly and breathe evenly. Eucefe lowered himself in, and my husband started the stopwatch.

    After he’d been in for a few seconds, we gave him the time. “Don’t tell me,” he said.

    So we just hung out, watching him.

    After a couple minutes, my daughter whispered, “Are you still alive?” He nodded slowly, and grinned. 

    At three minutes, my husband and I started giving each other looks. This guy seemed capable of staying in for hours. At what point would he turn into a popsicle? We didn’t want to crush his dreams, but we also wanted him to remain alive.

    At four minutes, we told him he should probably get out, and he hoisted himself out like he’d been doing cold plunges in ice-capped ponds his whole life. 

    Then, my turn. 

    My biggest fear isn’t the cold water — it’s whether or not I’ll be able to pull myself out — so I opted for the rope.

    My only goal was to try to stay calm and put my head under.

    I did both, though I didn’t feel calm (and in comparison to Eucefe’s stoic performance, I was positively hysterical). 

    My kneejerk reaction is to exit the water by hoisting my body up with my arms and then pulling my legs up under me. But that’s super hard on wet ice. So my daughter helpfully instructed me to lean forward onto the ice, and then lift my feet out behind me. PSA to all ice-plunging hopefuls, this is the exiting method of choice. Future, Jennifer, remember this. 

    Bonus of exiting on your belly: once you’re out, you can just lay on the ice and bask in the fact that you are no longer about to die (until your daughter tells you you’re gonna stick to the ice if you don’t get up now).

    Almost as soon as I was back home, I was wishing I could do it again so I could practice staying calmer, staying in longer, and getting in and out several times in a row to get over my fear of not being able to get out, etc.  

    I know it sounds crazy to want to plunge again just minutes after, but hey, endorphins are no joke.

    This same time, years previous: doping, the spiced onyx, a new project, what we ate, the quotidian (2.10.20), snake cake, crispy baked hash browns, a horse of her own, a taste, eight, school: the verdict, addictive and relaxing.